Our flight was at 9.40am so it was an early start to ensure we got the breakfast that we had paid for but did not need. There was a thunderstorm at 4am and then Mike’s phone rang at 4.30 so not the most restful sleep either.

We were picked up just before 7.15 and had a very scenic drive south along the coast to where the airport is. It’s quite a big airport considering the small size of Dubrovnik (population 70,000) and efficient enough.

I contemplated some new sunnies and a new backpack thing but in the end decided to wait and see if there is anything interesting at Heathrow. Should be more choice anyway and less to cart around in the meantime.

We had to board a bus to come out to our plane. All the Aussies and Kiwis took photos of the cute little Greek dog which went on the plane in its bag. It sat with them in the plane (inside the bag presumably). It’s dad didn’t even zip up the bag when they exited the bus, which I thought was rather risky. I could just imagine a little white dog running amok on the runways. We had to sit in the plane on the tarmac for a further 10 minutes as evidently they are too busy at the Athens end.

Well that was an easy flight. Only an hour and a half long but we got offered lollies to start, then drink (coffee/water/coke etc) and filled roll, then more drink and muesli bar. No wonder Aegean Air has won best regional airline in Europe for 7 years in a row. And you can take your pets on board.

The view out the window was interesting. With the help of the map in the airline magazine I could tell when we passed over Albania and into Greece and where we were along the coast. I hadn’t realised there was such a large number of lakes in the north west. Greece has some huge hydro schemes with networks of dams. Same process getting off although there were 2 buses so everything happened very quickly.

I was able to exchange the Croatian Kuna for Euros which was good and there was no wait at customs. Our driver was there to whisk us away in another black Mercedes. Thank goodness as there is a 24 hour taxi driver strike.

We are staying in the Amalia Hotel. It’s typical of the 1960s but has been renovated a bit and the rooms are clean and well appointed. We are right opposite the National Gardens and Parliament is just up the road. There is a roof garden (no bar but you can take up your drink from downstairs) and there is a view of the Acropolis in one direction and the National Gardens and Parliament in the other.

Soon we are off up the road to meet our guide for the ‘bohemian tales of the city’ tour. That’s us! Three bohemians if I’ve ever seen any. The meeting point is a subway station just up the road.

Well it’s been all go so this is being written 3 days later.

It was a short walk to the meeting point in front of the very impressive National Library. Let’s face it, in Athens any building of reasonable importance is impressive.

Our guide was a young woman called Evelina. We joined an Australian couple of early retirees and set off slowly walking through the streets and back alleys of Athens. The focus of the tour is on the parts of Athens that are frequented by locals. The bars, niteclub areas and restaurants. It was both relaxing and informative. We were all really glad to have done it. We also got a feel for how you can walk the various areas with no great problem.

First we went through these laneways and down some colourful stairs into a green courtyard that is a cafe/bar called Six Dogs. It was filled with young Athenians enjoying an after work drink. The tour included drinks and nibbles in various places. We had some homemade lemonade and watermelon drink. The Aussies had a Heineken each as the bar was out of Greek beer.

Then we were off around an area called Psiri (I think) which is full of graffiti art everywhere. Graffiti is a Greek word and it is clearly part of the culture. It’s everywhere including on many of the monuments. Generally it’s tolerated although the art is tolerated more than just plain tagging.

Some of the street art was amazing, both in size and quality. The streets seem a bit narrow and creepy but it is evidently perfectly safe and at night is buzzing with bars and people. In the late afternoon when we were there, most were still closed but I can imagine it would look fantastic at night with all the lights.

We passed lots of squares where there are markets for this and that. Also lots of places where building works have uncovered something ancient. We stopped to photograph the first one we saw which was in front of a very modern building. They tend to either glass over it or just put a barrier across and build around it. Given the whole place is built on ruins they will uncover something if they dig. There are heaps of derelict buildings around. They are protected but cost too much to make safe so just go to ruin. There are also lots of buildings under renovation or abandoned during renovation.

We stopped at this macaroon shop and tasted a very traditional Greek flavoured filling. It was a lemony, aromatic flavour but very rich and too much for us three. Can’t remember the name of the flavour.

Then we walked down to this area that was a former gas works and now is a network of public spaces where they hold festivals and concerts and markets. All of the old industrial buildings have been repurposed. On the way we passed this archaeological site that is a huge ancient cemetery that is still being excavated and studied.

Next it was off to a nearby restaurant district where we went upstairs and had a shared sample of a bruschetta type dish with crunchy bread, tomato and feta, some feta inside filo pastry and a falafel. All washed down with a glass of ouzo and water. Ouzo is not a favourite of mine but is in the ‘drinkable’ category. Nice on a hot day, which this was.

After that we all strolled back to the city centre. We found a nice cafe beside a church and park for a bite to eat and Auntie Google assisted to get us the 900m back to our hotel. We finished the evening with a beer on our hotel rooftop looking out at the Acropolis. It’s on the 7th floor and our rooms were on the 3rd floor. We were well tired afterward and looking forward to a sightseeing day on Thursday.

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