After a good sleep and breakfast we were off again this time heading south east out toward the opposite gate. The geography changes really quickly. One minute you are beside woodlands and hills and the next you’re amongst scrubby plains. Then we entered a large area of flat, high grassland. I think we were all ready to snooze as there didn’t seem any likelihood of seeing anything other than the occasional Gazelle and lots of anthills. And zebras of course. My favourite. Wrong!  

First we came across a Tawny Eagle just sitting in a large bush beside the road. We had been barrelling along at 80km (which is a whole other story – imagine the worst Coromandel road and make it more rutted but straight enough to speed on) so stopped, reversed and parked right beside it. It just stayed there posing. 

Then a few kms along we saw a group of hyenas all looking intently. Our group in front had stopped for a photo of the hyenas and then noticed 3 lions right beside them, with one feeding on a zebra carcass. The other two had either eaten or were waiting for their share. Then we saw a female lion just up the road on the other side. The front vehicle had moved up to look and she came and sat down in their shadow. Next, she was joined by another lioness which we saw coming across the ‘field’. We moved up closer to the first truck so we weren’t taking photos directly into the sun. At that point one of the male lions stood up and started walking very aggressively towards us. It was clear he meant business and I was scared he was coming for us, but no. First the females growled and then he roared and chased both of the females away, assisted by the other male who was not busy with eating. It seems the males were in a group of three and weren’t about to share their meal with these 2 females. The lionesses didn’t look as well fed as those in the Masai Mara but are probably getting short of food as neither the lions nor the hyenas migrate with their food sources. Mike managed to video him coming across the road to chase them and I videoed both him and his brother walking back and chasing off the encroaching hyenas. One of the guys in the front got footage of him confronting the females so between us we have the whole scene. He was so close to us that I could have reached out the window and touched him. I didn’t. 

Then, not 300m up the road, our front vehicle got a flat tyre. The 2 drivers and 2 guides all got out and got it changed as quick as they could. Looking back I could see all the hyenas lining up on the road beside the lions but one of them must have roared at them as they scattered back a few metres. 
The drivers are all good mechanics as well and tend to stop and help anyone in trouble, which is comforting. We were traveling behind a large tourist truck and Erellah and Rama noticed something fall from it. Somehow they radioed or signalled it to stop and they found that their barbecue grill had fallen off from where it was stored. We went back about 500m and found it. It was too big to get into the wagon so Rama tied it to a rope and dragged it along the road back to them. 
Eventually we came to the boundary between the Serengeti and Ngorogoro Parks where we took a photo of the park gate. 

Almost immediately we started to come across Masai stockmen with groups of cattle. The Masai are allowed to move freely between Kenya and Tanzania grazing their cattle. It was slim pickings for grazing to start with. It was also horrendously dusty. Both Mike and I seem to suffer the effects of the dust more than anyone else. Thank goodness for our Masai blanket, which was put to good use as a bandanna to shield us from dust. Mike has a terrible cough as a result but hopefully he can clear it out of his chest before he drives me completely crazy. 

The next restroom break was at a site with both a coffee shop and ordinary shop. Some of the others were ecstatic about the coffee, which did smell good, but we just thought about the need to pee. The toilets in the parks are generally pretty clean, though usually lacking paper, but between scheduled stops the option is the side of the road in view of anyone passing (and it seems like a highway at times) and we have discovered there are lions at every corner.  

The last bit before we rose up the hill towards the crater was bleak and dusty. You could hardly see the hills ahead. In some ways it reminded us of a cross between the Desert Road and the Mackenzie Country but dustier. Once we started climbing everything got greener and cooler. The view out over the crater is spectacular. It’s much bigger than I expected. It’s a vast flat crater floor (caldera, actually) with a body of water over some of it closer to our viewpoint. The entire area of the crater floor is significantly bigger than the area of Lake Taupo, to give some idea. In fact it’s over 13 times bigger than Lake Taupo. 

It was also cold and windy. The entire area is clearly in a rain shadow as the vegetation is lush and in stark contrast to the land we had left. 

Our lodge was a further hour’s drive around the crater. Mostly it was on a dirt road but we hit clouds so at least the road was damp. 

Along the way we passed a number of Masai villages which were generally larger and a lot more elaborate than in the Masai Mara and down on the plains. The huts were also thatched as there is plenty of straw. Erellah wouldn’t let us stop for a photo as the villages people will all swarm out wanting money. 

We are staying at the Ngorogoro Farmhouse, which is absolutely lovely. It is part of a 500 acre farm where they grow coffee and all their own veges. The lawns and gardens are beautifully laid out. There’s a lovely pool (though it’s a bit chilly for swimming) and the rooms are spaced around the central garden area and dining room, each with a terrace overlooking thick bush or fields. There is a fence around the perimeter so no wild animals inside (except birds, and probably snakes but I haven’t seen any of the latter). The main dining area has separate rooms/halls and would be perfect for a wedding. If either of our kids, or any of our friends decided on a few days here we would be more than happy to join them!

We had a lovely lunch out on the lawn under a Eucalyptus tree and have the afternoon to ourselves. There is a daily tour of the coffee farm and factory each day at 4.30 but we will do that tomorrow as we get back from the crater in the early afternoon. 

Dinner is in the dining room followed by a traditional dance display. Half of our lot will groan at the thought they will be expected to give a tip. It wouldn’t surprise me if one couple didn’t attend for that reason. We have separated ourselves into two groups that travel together with Martin and Erellah swapping between the wagons. We are with Lesley (the smoker – who turns out to be both terminally ill and very kind) and her partner of 5 years, Rick, who doesn’t say a lot but is a nice person. She and Rick are both in their 70s and have travelled extensively throughout the world. They are from Perth. He has arthritis in one leg but they are both very stoic and copes extremely well without complaining about anything. We are pretty sure he has early signs of Parkinson’s Disease. Also with us are the 2 single women, Pat from Melbourne and Yvonne from Orewa. Pat is 8 years older than me and I think Yvonne is in her 70s. We all get on well, enjoy everything we see and manage to not complain. They have also travelled extensively and make Mike and I seem like novice travellers. The others will be happy today as they get coffee, have hair dryers and the road out of here is all sealed. Also, one of the couples was getting frustrated that they couldn’t do their daily walks as they weren’t allowed out of the campsite or lodge areas in the Masai Mara and Serengeti because of the wildlife. They have 500 acres here. 

I love this place! The shower is outstanding. Heaps of hot water and plenty of pressure plus lovely, thick, white towels. Heaven. 
Dinner was great. Barbecue steak and chicken cooked outside and every assortment of salad and hot food you could imagine. Lovely pumpkin soup served first. Everything they serve is grown on the farm, including their cheese, which I’ll try tomorrow.