As expected, our journey to Zambia was pretty exhausting. We had opted to do the international flights with South African Airlines but in retrospect we should have just come to Livingstone direct from Zanzibar (if that’s possible). It would have been great to have another night (or 2) at Tongabezi Lodge in any event and we could easily have foregone Nungwi. 

 Actually it might not be possible to go directly to Livingstone in any event though am pretty sure the rest of our group weren’t going near Johannesburg. 

We had to wait for ages in Zanzibar airport as the flight was delayed and we got there an hour early. The airport was packed with flights waiting for Doha, Dubai and Nairobi as well as ours. The Dubai and Doha flights were late and there were a lot of anxious travellers who had connections to make. Our flight was about half an hour late but the flight time was halved to only fifteen minutes. We were in quite a big plane and it must have flown at about 10,000ft.

Our transfer was waiting for us at Dar Es Salaam airport and we were taken to the Conway Hotel, which is about 20 minutes from the airport. We arrived at about 11pm having travelled along virtually deserted streets. The Conway Hotel is functional and was clean. Despite advertising its availability for conferences and weddings, and the in-house spa, I’d say that airport stopovers and sleezy trysts would be its main market. Probably also Tanzanian sales people. The room was tiled, had a queen bed with no upper sheets (although there was one folded up) and one and a half pillows. Mike folded his in two and augmented with his travel pillow. The bathroom was a wet room with shower, loo and basin combined. We passed on the shower, set our alarm for 3am and got a couple of hours sleep.  The entire room with wet room was about the size of the ensuite at Nungwi. 

At 3.30am we were transferred back to the airport for our 6am flight to Johannesburg. That all happened on time and was uneventful. The flight breakfast was adequate but they have a long way to go before AirNZ needs to worry. Not sure what the meat was with the omelette but it tasted odd and I wasn’t tempted. 

Johannesburg airport is very nice. The only hassle was the very long queue to put our hand luggage through the security scanners in the transit area. They have excellent shops in the main terminal and we were able to purchase some waterproof cases for our iPhones and a good pair of binoculars. We were quite taken with the ones that Lesley had and it was great to have them when looking for cats in the trees. Like hers, we have bought a set with wide lenses at the bottom and they let in lots of light. They are Bushnells, which is a brand Mike was familiar with. 

It was a shorter trip to Livingstone, which has a new airport and is very spacious. Unfortunately the process for getting visas is not streamlined and we waited in a queue for nearly 40 minutes without moving, which was fairly frustrating. Eventually we got through and found our way to the money change place. Who would know there is no market for Tanzanian shillings in Zambia! That was a blow. Hopefully we will be able to get rid of our Tanzanian money when we go back through Johannesburg. If the worst come to the worst we can offer it for sale at the departure gates assuming there are flights going to either Dar Es Salaam or Zanzibar. 

Our transfer greeted us and escorted us to Tongabezi Lodge giving a helpful commentary on Livingstone and the general area as we drove. You can see the spray from the falls from the air a long way out. Mike didn’t believe me at the time but does now!

The drive to the lodge takes about 30 minutes along a very smooth sealed road. Part of the trip is through Zambia’s smallest national park, which adjoins the lodge property. The national park is only 68km2 and goes down to the edge of the Zambezi River. It seems to exist for the protection of a breeding group of white rhinos. Evidently they have 24/7 guards now after 2 were killed by poachers about 10 years ago. Seriously you do have to wonder about all the weird stuff they use to cure themselves in China. Just stick to normal stuff and leave the rhinos and elephants alone.  

The Tongabezi Lodge is heaven. We knew when we booked to come here that it was a step up but we had decided to come for two nights of luxury. Wish we’d gone for 3 or 4 nights!

We have full board here which means your meals, drinks and laundry are all included, as are guides and many of the excursions. The lodge is a complex of small buildings right on the water’s edge. They are beautifully appointed. There are lovely private areas where you can dine, including on balconies in the various lounge rooms. There are also dining areas on the main deck, which has 2 fire pits where you meet for drinks and nibbles at 7pm. 

The detail about Tongabezi I shall save for its own post.