We were collected at 7.30am and had a very light breakfast. I paid a tip to both our guide and valet. The lodges leave guidance information in your lodge book about how much you should tip, which is voluntary but expected. I figure we are in Africa so need to fall in with the expectations here. The guideline was for $10US per couple per day for the valet and guide and the same for the general staff tip box. We had the exact amount equivalent in Zambian money so were able to get rid of that. 

Our driver had his fiancé in the van as was dropping her off at her mother’s near the Botswana border. They were a very nice couple but unfortunately for him we had no Zambian money left and I knew I would need my US dollars so we weren’t able to assist with financing the up and coming wedding – although would have done so if we’d had the cash. 

We thought we were going back to Livingstone but no. We were taken an hour in the other direction to the ferry crossing that takes you across the Zambezi to Botswana. In fact, where you disembark is actually in Zimbabwe as the border fence comes right down to the river bank. It is at the point where Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, and Namibia all meet.  

The border customs happen on both the Zambian and Botswana sides. They are building a new bridge but it is not scheduled for completion for another 2 years. In the meantime, there are hundreds of trucks parked up on both sides waiting for customs clearance and then to go onto these ferry barges, which take about 2 large truck and trailers at a time. Being a truck driver in Zambia involves a lot of down time. The same sort of backlog was at the Victoria Falls bridge but not so long or chaotic. This was also the first immigration clearance we have been through where they don’t need to see us – just our passports. The driver took them off and came back five minutes later and then we were loaded onto the ferry. 

On the Botswana side we had to wait for a family from Belgium who were also going to the airport in Kasane. The Botswana immigration was a bit more normal although we didn’t have to do fingerprints or anything. When you come out of immigration you have to show your yellow fever certificates and then walk through this trough with disinfectant to kill foot and mouth disease. Not sure how that works if you’ve been wearing different shoes. The vehicle also had to drive through the equivalent of a sheep dip. 

The Belgian mother and 2 teenagers are doing a similar trip to us in Botswana but staying in different camps. The airport at Kasane is only 10km from the border and is brand new, as in only open 11 days. 

The security guys practiced putting our backpacks through about 3 times checking the binoculars and bits and pieces. Our trip representative was a bit concerned they took something off us but they were just practicing with the new equipment. 

Our flight to Savute was great. The plane was a 16 seater and one person had to sit beside the pilot. The flight was at 10,000 ft over some pretty barren and scrubby, flat country that turns out to be the Kalahari Desert. I must admit I had trouble staying awake. We landed at this fairly primitive airstrip that had elephant poo all over it. There was a tiny shack at one end that said ‘office’ and otherwise had a welcome sign. There was also a welcome guide with vehicle. We got off and also a German couple and a family of 3 from Surrey in the UK. The rest continued on for the next two destinations. 

Our guide drove us about 20 minutes into the Chobe National Park and then a further 5 minutes to Savute Safari Camp, which is a lodge with cottages. I liked it immediately. The UK family were a bit nervous about safety initially, but that was fixed with some wine and beer at lunch. The Germans are on their honeymoon so anything was fine with them. 

We first had lunch and then were shown our rooms. The lunch was lovely. All the staff come and introduce themselves so that becomes a bit of a test but it is all very friendly and nice. The rooms are also lovely. A large bedroom/lounge and beautifully appointed bathroom.As with Tongabezi you need to have an escort after dark to and from the main dining area and bar, even though the distances are short. The issue here is the likely presence of leopards and lions in the camp/lodge area. 

The lodge has its own bore for water and also a bore that supplies an artificial water hole. That water hole is right beside the main deck area where you have dinner and afternoon tea and there were 2 elephants drinking when we arrived. That number swelled to about 8 during dinner. 

We were fascinated with the cute tiny squirrels that run around everywhere. They are evidently naughty and you have to keep valuables and medication safe or they will be off with it. 

After lunch we had some time to get organised and then were off on a game drive – after afternoon tea of course. ). On the way down to the deck we saw this yellow billed hornbill (bird) with a rat in its beak. That was both interesting and rather disturbing. Nothing is just cute and friendly in Africa. Out on the game drive we saw elephants, giraffes, a male lion sleeping and then a pack of wild dogs sleeping. There are only 3000 African Wild Dogs in the entire continent and we saw about 12 of them asleep under a bush. 

After that there was news about a leopard. It was in the distance so next minute all the guide trucks left the road/track (which is entirely sand here rather than dirt/dust) and headed off to the leopard, which obliged by posing on top of first one, then another termite mound. She was just looking for a good vantage point and completely ignored us.  You would never get away with going off road in either the Masai Mara or Serengeti. Far too many rangers around. 

We had afternoon tea/gin and tonic beside a Baobab tree not far from the wild dogs. 

We travel with the UK family (parents and 16 year old son) who are excellent company. This is their third safari holiday but the others were in South Africa. Our guide is called Metal (don’t ask) and the vehicle is an open sided Ford 4×4 with canvas roof. Mike and I were in the back and much of the time I struggled to stay in my seat. You have to hang on tight. We also saw banded mongoose, which are a cross between meerkats and armadillos to look at. 

We have to be out of the park by 6.30pm so that gave time to get changed and then turn up to the bar for pre dinner drinks and nibbles. Yes there is a theme. Dinner was down on the lower deck overlooking the waterhole and elephants, which are illuminated. Totally cool. The staff do welcome singing, which is great and then introduce themselves and the meal and wines. It is all very civilised. The meal was excellent and afterwards you move to the fire pit where the guides regale you with stories. It is all heaps of fun. The generator gets turned off half an hour after the last guest leaves the fire and then you stay in your cottage until morning wake up at 6am. What a great start to our Botswana adventure. (No wifi, but somehow that makes it even more appealing).