Mike, Elenor and Kim all opted out of the early trip to the prayer ceremonies. We had a terrible night with Mike coughing a lot and then fielding a client phone call at 3.40am.
The bus dropped us near the river and it was pretty cold to start with but calm and not very foggy.
The various ceremonies involved chanting and bells and waving of flaming torches that resembled trees and cobras.
Also some incense, horn blowing and then bathing in the Ganges.
It was all very symbolic but I thought a touch theatrical which I suspect may result from the large number of tourists. There was classical music afterwards and then yoga for all. Many westerners were there on the long yoga mats and a group of about 12 just sitting to one side facing the sunrise over the Ganges in benign meditation.
Quite frankly I found that both contrived and ridiculous. The surroundings they were looking out upon are filthy.
The water not 50 m from where people were bathing was filthy.
The same people could put on their pseudo yogi attire and sit in their nice European or US gardens or parks to watch the sunrise and I’d be surprised if there was any less degree of enlightenment. However, each to their own. There is no doubt that this is a very sacred and spiritual place for Hindus and locals and the sights, sounds and smells around the riverbank were worth getting up for.
We had an excellent cup of chai tea from a man beside the Ganges.
Drinking chai tea on the bank of the Ganges. (Not sure about the pizzeria sign. Maybe Varanasi is also on the pilgrim trail for Italians and other pizza lovers.)
Then it was back to the hotel for breakfast (via an ATM).
Mike was feeling a bit better and went down for breakfast before we set off to Sarnath which is a hugely symbolic site for Buddhists.
It’s evidently where Buddha preached his first sermon and there’s a temple and gardens and a Museum. Again the analogy with the biblical story of the sermon on the mount was striking.
Plenty of Chinese and other East Asian tourists as you’d expect. It was interesting to learn more about the Buddhist religion though you have to dodge the hawkers and beggars at the various temple sites.
The air quality is awful so we bought some face masks. Jen did some research and evidently it’s no better in Nanitaal where we go after the tour, which is a bit of a worry.
Our hotel here is also awful – the only one that had been below par so far. The rooms are not terribly clean, although the beds are ok, and the staff are disorganised and unhelpful. We just had beer for lunch.
It’s clean, tastes ok and might help my constitution. We certainly don’t need food. We had a bit of a break and then it was back into town for some shawl shopping and to see the prayer ceremonies by night. Our numbers have dwindled for this expedition. Elenor and Riketh were both feeling unwell and stayed behind and Kim was tired and not up for the pollution that comes with a rickshaw ride. The minibus dropped us off at the edge of the old town and then we got bicycle rickshaws to the shawl shop.
Craig was feeling bad about the load as he and I were in one together, until we saw a family of 5 in one going the other way. Surely they weighed more.
The shawl shop was upstairs, down and around a couple of alleys off the main street. 
The prices were fixed, which was a relief. They showed us about 100 blankets and shawls and scarves.
The blankets were lovely but at $200 for a cashmere throw I passed and instead got a pretty blue scarf. No doubt worth the money but not a ‘must have’. Then we walked down a very crowded street to the riverbank (except for Ian and Sarah who took a rickshaw back to the hotel to check on Ellie).
The amphitheater above the ceremony terrace and around and below, was absolutely packed.
Bhagi found us a spot on a raised bit of concrete that was covered in matting. We had to take our shoes off but got a great view. Bhagi paid the man, although it’s not as if it belonged to the man. I guess we were enjoying his mats rather than straight concrete and he was keen to paint our heads with stuff, though we all vigorously declined, depite the religious significance. He was some sort of holy person or yogi by the look of his attire and like others seems to earn a living by renting out viewing space.
We didn’t stay for the whole ceremony, which was the same as this morning but with more bells. Good that Mike saw it and it was very spectacular with all the lights and people. Lots of the locals (and the spiritually inclined westerners) were clapping in places. It reminded me a bit of a pentecostal service though Bhagi says it is more spiritual than religious. There are lots of people selling this little posies of marigols with a teamlight candle in the middle. You evidently light the candle and set the little raft afloat with a wish or remembrance – much the same idea as chinese lanterns. Marigolds grow everywhere and are very colourful. I now understand the choice of hotel title in the movie (Best Exotic Marigold Hotel).
We walked to dinner which was upstairs from the main street. We all had platters which we shared between 3 or 4.
They only serve vegetarian food – I think within the old city – and no alcohol. It was yum and very filling.
After dinner we all headed back to the hotel in auto rickshaws. It’s always a bit of a wild ride but Mike and I enjoy them. We all used our masks and everyone seems to be suffering with blocked noses and sinus trouble.
We didn’t sleep well as both were coughing and had blocked noses. It turns out that Craig was also sick with a bad stomach as was Riki. It had to happen I guess.