After a good sleep on a nice firm bed and a cold wash we got packed up for breakfast at 7.45 and then in the bus to Ranthambore National Park.

Bhagi gives us story time on the bus. Different topics each day. Today it was the caste system. He picks topics that we ask questions about plus other topics about regional and national history. It’s really interesting and you can choose to tune in or tune out. It’s a longer drive today and there are lots of roadworks.

We stop every hour or so for toilets, usually at petrol stations. Bhagi pays the toilet people and so far the restrooms have been spotless.

We travelled through rural areas growing mustard and what looked like rice but evidently was wheat (they don’t eat much rice in the north) and then past guava orchards.

The rural areas look pretty primitive. It was also noticeable that half the population (the female half) is virtually invisible. You could count the number of women you saw on one hand when passing through most towns and villages.

We did see a number of men and boys washing in communal bathrooms consisting of a water tank with hose or a well. This was happening late morning as I guess the water might have warmed up a bit by then. Water for the houses comes from either a hose at the tank or from a hand pumped well.

We arrived at our hotel at lunchtime. It is one of the many hotels servicing the national park. It’s nice.

The rooms are a good size and the bathrooms are functional. Evidently the water is only heated between 5 and 10.30 morning and night but it was hot when we arrived.

After check-in we had lunch. There was more carbohydrate than I’ve ever seen in one meal. Two different types of potatoes, rice, noodles, penne pasta and roti breads. In addition some paneer (soft cheese) in a tomato curry sauce and a chicken curry. It’s all a bit overwhelming given we weren’t expecting lunch so had a big breakfast comprising very similar fare, but with cereals and omelettes as well. We are staying at a different hotel than expected and I suspect we get the lunches thrown in because it is not quite as expensive as the original one.

At 2pm we were collected for our afternoon game drive. We went in open top trucks and drive about 25 minutes to the gates.

The part of the park open to the public is divided into 10 zones and all the groups are balloted as to which zone you get. We got zone 5 which is on the hotel side of the park and evidently has several known tiger territories within. It’s all about the tigers.

It was very dusty and bouncy and we’d been warned to take scarves. It also got cold quite quickly so was glad to have my big coat and beanie. We saw little spotted deer, larger antelopes, samba deer, an eagle, peacocks and hens and chicks, some mongooses, monkeys, storks and wild boar but no tigers. I was happy to be out and about and enjoyed looking at the jungle (woodland really). We have another go in the morning so maybe more luck then.

We had time for a shower then dinner which was fun with lots of hilarity as people get to know each other. I’m trying to eat plenty of fruit and drink beer as am the only tourist in India with constipation. So much bread. By 9.30pm we were exhausted and happy to snuggle into bed. No heating in the rooms but the bedding is warm.