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July 23, 2023 In 2023, England, St Ives
Day 31: July 21st

Check outs in the UK are often a very civilised 12 noon and such was the case at the Maltsters Arms. Nevertheless we opted for an early breakfast (they start at 8.30am) and again all enjoyed the scrambled eggs and salmon.
Pauline had suggested we do the coastal walk from Looe to Polperro as she had done that with Craig and JenY and they all enjoyed it. Being a lovely day we agreed that sounded like a plan and after faewelling Pauline (well for 5 days until we see her again) we set off for Looe which is further to the west and is in Cornwall it turns out. There is a small place called Portlooe which I found hilarious and we actually walked past it. No conveniences available however.
We parked at this area called Hannafore Point and set off for Polperro along the coastal walk. Pauline had estimated it would take about 2 hours and it was perfect walking weather. A bit overcast and very still.
Pauline had also warned it was a bit challenging in places and quite up and down. She was right 🤗. The first part of the walk was reasonably busy with dog walkers but then the numbers thinned out as we went along. Absolutely lovely scenery down to the sea and rocks below. We were on the look out for seals as Craig and JenY had been entertained by a seal when they did the walk but we didn’t see any and mostly the rocks were too far below for my eyesight to spot them.


We stopped about 2/3 of the way along at this Little Bay called Talland where there were a couple of cafes.

This is just before Talland

A couple coming up some steeps steps recommended the place just nearby so we diverted for Cream Tea, cake and coffee. I decided to try the cream tea as we hadn’t had one in Devon.

There is evidently local argument about whether the jam or the cream goes first. On Devon it’s the cream first with the jam on top and in Cornwall the opposite. Devon opting for the prettier outcome over Cornwall’s preference for taste and structural integrity! At this cafe they supplied the scone (choice of fruit or plain), clotted cream and jam separately so you can construct your own!

I tried both options, neither looking as good as the shops would probably manage. I can report that both were surprisingly yummy and indistinguishable in flavour 🤗

There were some very nice homes and accommodation places dotted along the coastline.

This one had a commanding view of the bay and out to sea.

After about 25 minutes more we came to Polperro which is a funny little fishing village that is a lot bigger than it first seems. Unfortunately the tide was out so we didn’t see it at full cuteness but it was still cute.

The harbour entrance to Polperro
Just outside the marina entrance. Lots of marinas around here (well all of them actually) have sea walls but inside they go completely dry when the tide is out.

Good for marketing!

Pauline and JenY had recommended we go to the Three Pilchards for lunch. It’s one of the pubs overlooking the marina and has a roof terrace for more dining. Great suggestion.

We’d have enjoyed watching Craig negotiate this place. Note the doorway behind that goes up to the roof terrace.
This couple and their cocker spaniel puppy were at the next table to us. They had a camper van and had come from Devon and were enjoying the view down over the stranded boats and the village.

Seconds after that photo a seagull (one of hundred) flew over and deposited guano liberally over both of them. Only the puppy survived. They were remarkably philosophical about it. That’s the good thing about holidays I guess. She rinsed out her sweatshirt and he cleaned off his arm and leg. We huddled further under our umbrella.

Fish pie for me and beef pie for Mike. It seems to be compulsory for every meal in the UK to come with those weeds on top. I think it’s watercress but am not entirely sure.
Looking back towards the Three Pilchards (the large white pub in the centre) and our new friends on the roof terrace – see the umbrellas above the pink building.

After lunch (which was now about 4 pm) we set off up the village to call for a taxi to take us back to Looe.

There are some lovely colourful gardens.
This little stream goes down into the marina through all the houses.
The same stream as it gets closer to the sea
Begonias are everywhere. I am surprised they grow outside.

No taxis available but the bus came just when we wanted it and for £2 we got a ride back and only a 15 minute walk to the car. Looe had started to get some water so was looking very pretty.

After leaving Looe we headed for St Ives which is our destination for the next 3 nights.

There are heaps of wind power turbines everywhere. Sometimes very close to the roads.


The Harbour View Hotel at St Ives has a great location overlooking the beach and our room, while bijou, is very well appointed. We just have to unpack the suitcases into drawers in order to have enough space!

The room comes with complimentary gin and tonics. How civilised.
Previous StoryDay 30: July 20th
Next StoryDay 32: July 22nd

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