We had travelled over night and arrived at Santorini just before breakfast. Santorini is the name the Venetians called the island but the Greek name is Thira. There was a big swell after the winds so most people didn’t sleep well. It was an interesting exercise having a shower while holding onto the handrail. It’s quite hard to wash your hair and hold on at the same time.
We had also been warned about the crowds and the cost. As it turned out there were only 2 really big cruise ships there when we arrived.
Joseph had explained that Santorini is a crescent shaped island in a group of 5 that form the rim around the caldera of an underwater volcano. It was formed following an eruption in 1600 BC that was 90 times greater than Krakatoa. It is also the site of an important archaeological find that had a society that was seriously advanced. Many think it is the remnant of the lost world of Atlantis.
The caldera is too deep for boats to anchor and there is no dock so The Galileo moored to a steel buoy and another reasonable sized yacht and we went ashore by tender. There was quite a swell so it was a mission for some of the older ones and those with physical challenges. One man missed the step but the crew are strong and have quick reactions luckily.
From the shore we had a short briefing and then took the funicular to the top of the cliffs. In the old days you either climbed the 588 steps or went up by donkey. Then about 40 years ago a local family donated the funicular. Half the cost of the ticket up to the top goes to the donkey drivers as they lost part of their income. Seems fair especially as they still get to use their donkeys and it’s €6 whether you go by funicular or donkey.
We had signed up for the tour so joined most of the others on the bus and toured to the southern tip of the island to this archaeological site called Akrotiri. The scenery on the way is amazing. Steep cliffs down to the caldera on one side and flat land with some crops and vineyards on the other. The island is officially a desert so all the plants are grown in a way to preserve water. The grapes are grown close to the ground almost in small knots and their tomatoes and cucumbers are small and round.
The whitewashed buildings on Santorini are very distinctive and that is evidently something that has come about since the 1950s. Originally it was as a disinfectant. The limestone whitewash kills bugs and they whitewash the houses, grouting in the streets and piles of rocks in the centre of fields. Nowadays it is more an identity thing and part of a very successful marketing regime.
We had a guide at Akrotiri. She was very passionate about the site and the way of life being uncovered. The houses were 3 storied and most of the site is presently only showing the top floor. There have been no human remains found which is puzzling as they estimated the site had 2000 residents. There were no city walls, defences or weapons found so they have theorised that the place existed in peace and harmony. They had gutters for the rainwater, inside flushing toilets and beautiful painted frescoes on the walls. We can’t see the frescoes as they have gone to museums to be protected and preserved but there are still beds and a toilet visible. Our guide was very chic as well as very passionate but you wouldn’t want to mess with her. A group of 4 young US guys were following our tour and one of them went right to the front at each turn. About half way round our guide said “you are not with this group are you?” “Yes” he said. “Liar! You are a liar. Go to the back and let these people hear”. I think he was a bit taken aback and his friends were clearly embarrassed. We all felt special.
After that we piled back on the bus and headed for Oia which is the iconic cliff top town with the white buildings and blue domes. It’s very pretty but also busy and a little bit too Disney and contrived for me. The bus park says it all about the crowds really and that’s with the cruise ship people coming in by boat and funicular! It was nice to visit and the views are great. The 3 of us had a small lunch in a restaurant overlooking the town and sea and enjoyed a bottle of local white wine. Then Barb went off to check out the shops and Mike and I headed for the other end of town where there are some spectacular views.
We had to be back at the dock by 4.30 if we wanted the first tender back to the boat. We queued for the funicular as there are 588 steps down and they are made for donkeys not humans. I was actually quite happy to walk down but Mike’s knees would complain and he was feeling a bit off. Possibly not enough water and possibly a mild migraine. In any event the queue moved very quickly.
Some people walk up and down. We watched one youngish woman having trouble and having to hold the wall for every step and that was after only about 20. The steps and paths are all marble and very smooth. Santorini itself is spotlessly clean but the steps have donkeys going up and down carrying people so they make the steps smelly and slippery. Barb ended up half way down so walked and said the donkeys were a bit scary to pass as they got awfully close.
Afterwards we had Greek night on the boat that started with grilled octopus (yum) and ouzo (so so) and was followed by local dancers performing and getting everyone involved. The second officer is a very good dancer so she joined in also. Then the dinner comprised traditional Greek foods. Lots of salads and seafood.
We spent the night in Santorini in calm and protected waters.