Mike seems to be improving but my head cold is worse and moving to my chest. Hopefully the beach will be a cure. We were collected at a very reasonable 9am after breakfast to make our way to Breezes Beachclub. That is the last accommodation on our tour itinerary for the Kenya to Zanzibar portion. 

We had organised to do a spice tour on our way. The tour began about half an hour outside Stonetown and was on a government owned plantation that is a cooperative tourism venture with the local villages.  The road there is pretty marginal in places. Even on the sealed part it can be uncomfortable as there are a series of 3 judder bars on both sides of every village as a speed calming measure. We noticed that all through Kenya and Tanzania but it is easier to cope with in a 4WD. Our transfer vehicles are air conditioned vans but not 4WD. 

The plantation grows every type of spice and fruit imaginable and it was interesting to hear about their many and varied uses. A lot of the spices we use for cooking tend to be used here primarily for medicinal purposes. I have taken note and am imbibing as many ginger based drinks as possible. Tumeric seems to be the other thing that cures every ailment from sore stomach to cancer. 

A durian tree. The fruit are enormous and we had to keep out from underneath. The fruit stink except for when they are exactly ripe and then are evidently delicious

We met Pat and one of the other couples at the morning tea stop. She loved the beach place that we were going to and they were en route to the Tembo Hotel. The morning tea stop comprised the opportunity to taste several different spiced teas. I loved them all but had seconds of the ginger one. They also served slices of about 6 different fruits. From memory: Jackfruit; grapefruit ( which looks nothing like ours. It’s sweet and pink inside and tastes more like an orange); orange, mandarin; and pineapple. I think there were more but have forgotten. 

We had the obligatory opportunity to buy soap and spices. I bought some bags of spices. Jen says it’s fine so long as we declare them. I’ll have to remember to keep them somewhere accessible in the luggage when we return. Lots of tumeric!  

Our tour included lunch so we were driven there after completing the tour. I feel sorry for Pat as the others didn’t want to do the lunch as it was an extra expense (about $10).  It turns out we were taken to a home in the local village where the homeowner had cooked us lunch and we ate inside.

 It was the home of one of the wealthiest families in the village and the house seemed to have a front room and 3 bedrooms. The lady put a mat down on the tiled floor and we were served hot lunch on a tray on the mat in a sunken area of the room. We sat against the wall beside the tv (old  CRT style). There were some shelves with clothes on them in the upper level of the room and a rack on the wall with numerous headscarves. 

The lunch had been cooked outside at the back and was delicious. A bowl of pilau rice with potatoes, a chicken casserole in a tomato sauce, spinach stuff and red onion and tomato salad. Our guide sat with us but didn’t eat as he had some catch up days after Ramadan. Evidently he’d been sick for 4 days and had food during that time so yesterday was his second to last catch up day.  I asked if he’d missed out on the 4 day celebration with his family (called Eide) but no.  Evidently it’s forbidden to fast during Eide so everyone gets to enjoy the family feast together.  Seems like a pretty good system, which I might try out before Christmas – the fasting I mean, not the 4 day feast. 

The family didn’t join us which was a shame. They treated it like a restaurant which probably reflects the fact that it’s an intrusion into their lives which is to be borne in return for the income. The lady was polite but spent her time checking her cellphone and various sons of various ages trooped in and out presumably waiting for lunch. 

After the lunch we were driven to Breezes Beachclub which is a delightful resort. It is as nice or nicer than anywhere we have stayed in Fiji or Bali and has a very similar feel. Lots of thatched roofs, very high ceilings in the reception areas and loads of coconut palms everywhere. We have half board here which means dinner, bed and breakfast but no lunch or drinks (except cold water). 

The room is lovely. It is large and opens onto a terrace which has an excellent clothes rack. Yay! Getting hand washing dry can be a bit of a mission when you are on the go every other day. 

The dinner was a set menu and excellent. Prawn salad to start with followed by zucchini soup, fish or steak and then icecream with banana crumble. Totally delicious. We also enjoyed the Dawa cocktails. Local gin with lime, ginger and honey. Perfect for a head cold, whether they actually work or not.  The dining room is open to the outside and adjoins a tiled stage area. Being Saturday night we had a performance from 6 acrobats, who were very good and gave a polished show but they were not as exciting as our trio at Lake Nakuru. No fire eating and their limbo stick was not even flaming!